International Living November 2023
by Kristin Wilson
Few heroines capture the romance of the European Grand Tour like Helena Bonham Carter in A Room With A View, a film based on E.M. Forster’s lush 1908 novel.
Carter plays Lucy Honeychurch, a young woman who, while touring Florence with her chaperone, witnesses a way of life free from the strictures of Edwardian England… and begins a journey of self-discovery.
The Grand Tour became fashionable in the 17th century, when the sons of wealthy families traveled through France, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland, and sometimes Germany or Austria, completing a classical education with hands-on lessons… and some adventure thrown into the mix, too.
Itineraries varied, but as the Grand Tour gained in popularity, a traditional route was established… with Paris and Rome as the must-see destinations.
In the 19th century, railroads and steamships made travel more accessible and affordable. Scholars, artists, designers, collectors, and even women (!) began their own pilgrimages of personal growth.
The Grand Tour of Europe was, for a certain class, a rite of passage. But today, you don’t have to be wealthy, white, and born in 1789 to see Europe in style.
In fact, if you do it right, you can slow-travel the continent for three to 12 months… and spend no more than you would to stay at home.
It’s More Than a Vacation
Today, the closest equivalent to the Grand Tour is taking a semester or a year abroad. And while we most often associate a "gap year" with young people just out of school, more adults are taking time off these days.
Like railroads and steamships back in the day, internet and air travel have made more places accessible.
This month, we’ll focus on how to take a "modern" Grand Tour… adding in considerations such as visas, weather, and costs.
I’ll also give you tips for planning it… and sample itineraries to stoke your wanderlust.
THE EUROPEAN GRAND TOUR... WITH A TWIST
I’ve segmented this recommended year abroad by region, but it’s designed for you to slice and dice as you wish.
First, we’ll take you to the British Isles, beginning with Dublin. From there, you’ll journey to the slow-paced south of England… before pivoting to Scotland’s largest city.
After that, you’ll hop to the continent for a spin through the Iberian Peninsula and a meander across French wine country… winding up in Paris.
Go off the beaten path by wrapping up your journey in the Balkans, starting with Cyprus—where you’ll catch some sun—and then Bansko, Bulgaria, where you’ll hit the slopes.
End your year in Tbilisi, Georgia, which makes an ideal base for slow traveling… or a permanent roost, should you so choose.
What if you only have three months to put toward your personal Grand Tour?
Choose the June through August leg of the itinerary.
Six months? Tack on the September through November leg.
Want to skip sightseeing in, say, Ireland? Start in Glasgow, then hop over to Portugal and Spain… or start from France before heading to the Balkans.
You can mix and match as you please… after all, this is your Grand Tour.
JUNE–AUGUST: 3 MONTHS IN THE BRITISH ISLES
June in Dynamic Dublin
You can expect mild weather and long, sunny days during the summer in the UK and Ireland.
Kick off your Grand Tour in Dublin, where temperatures will hover between 50 and 60 F in June with the occasional warm day.
With a diverse mix of international and local residents, Ireland’s capital consistently ranks as the second-friendliest city in Europe, right behind Galway in the west.
If you want to stay in the heart of the action, check out Smithfield, a neighborhood northwest of the Temple Bar nightlife district.
If you’re a foodie, consider Portobello, a hub for drinking, dining, and shopping.
And if you’re a culture buff, look no further than the southeast corner of town, near Merrion Square Park and St. Stephen’s Green… where you’ll be next door to the National Gallery of Ireland, the National Concert Hall, and the Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI).
Housing in Dublin is infamously expensive, but for the widest selection of options, check out Daft, Ireland’s largest property site, Rent, with more than 20,000 short- and long-term listings, or Sublet.
If you’re renting on Airbnb, ask the host if they offer a long-term rate.
A one-bedroom apartment in the city center costs €1,643 ($1,740) on average, whereas you can save about €200 ($212) per month if you rent a similar property on the outskirts of town.
You won’t struggle for something to do here. For sightseeing, check out the 800-year-old Malahide Castle, and enchanting walled gardens, thirty minutes from Dublin’s city center, or the Powerscourt Home & Gardens in County Wicklow, named the third-best garden in the world by National Geographic and a little over an hour’s drive from the city center.
Take a stroll along the picturesque harbor, cliffs, and villages of Howth Peninsula, just north of Dublin Bay.
Here, you can golf, hike, or take in panoramic ocean views from a seafood restaurant.
If you’re interested in exploring the Irish countryside without an itinerary, rent a car and drive (Americans and Canadians can drive using licenses from their own country).
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| You can opt to follow the entire 12-month tour… or break it into three- or six-month legs. |
Otherwise, Ireland’s expansive public transportation system of trains and buses will be able to take you to the farthest corners of the island, from Cork and Tralee to Sligo and the Cliffs of Moher.
Once your month comes to a close, a flight from Ireland to the UK is a short hop of one to three hours.
Flight prices start as low as $20, but can reach $400 depending on your destination and number of bags. If you have extra time, consider taking the scenic ferry route from Dublin to Holyhead, Wales.
It’ll run you $40 for a three-and-a-half-hour trip.
July in Slow-Paced England
From Dublin, jump to the UK, where Americans can stay for up to six months on a tourist visa… making it an ideal slow travel base.
London may be the most obvious choice for a British getaway… but if you love the cultural offerings of London and want a quieter base, consider Manchester, where I spent a glorious six months. (Read why I recommend it here.)
If you’re itching for something more coastal, opt for the region of Cornwall in the southwestern corner of the country, characterized by its rocky outcroppings, 300-plus beaches, and ancient history.
Cornwall also has its own sub-tropical microclimate, making it one of the warmer and sunnier places in the UK. (You can even grow bananas and lemons there.)
For a quiet stay, I recommend Devon, "England’s natural playground," for its picturesque villages. You may recognize the white-washed seaside houses of Clovelly from the top of British biscuit tins. The town was once a gift from William the Conqueror to his wife Matilda of Flanders, the first queen of England.
These days, you can enjoy scenic coastal walks, fresh lobster and crab, and admire the views over Bideford Bay.
The serene surroundings and traffic-free streets make it an ideal spot for artists and creatives as well, with Charles Dickens, Rex Whistler, and William Turner reportedly having been fans.
Make a detour to Plymouth, "Britain’s Ocean City," where you can frequent many theaters, museums, and sporting events. You can reach Plymouth from Devon in less than two hours by car or train, or about the same time by ferry from Cornwall.
The Royal William Yard, a collection of historic buildings housed in a former naval yard, has since transformed into a lifestyle hub including restaurants, cafés, shops and art galleries.
Indulge in French cooking at Bistro Pierre or sample more than 300 wines from around the globe at Le Vignoble, an independent wine merchant and tapas bar. Regular events take place year-round, including an outdoor cinema.
You can conveniently stay on-site in the Royal William Yard in fully-furnished holiday apartments through Plum Locations.
And don’t miss Torquay, known as the English Riviera for its mild climate (averaging in the low 70s F in the summer).
It’s an excellent place to swim, paddle, and kayak.
HOW TO TRAVEL BY PLANE, TRAIN, AND AUTOMOBILE
With an extensive network of international buses and trains to help you reach your destination, you don’t have to have a car in Europe (exceptions noted above).
With a Eurail pass, you can travel to more than 30,000 destinations across 33 European countries without buying individual tickets.
Choose between a Global or 1-Country Pass, both which offer discounts for over-60s, and select how many days you want to travel, and how.
A seven-day pass for one month ($282) is suitable for visiting six to eight destinations, while you can go to nine to 11 destinations with a 10-days-in-two-months pass ($338). One-country passes for Portugal, Spain, or Italy run from $79–150 per month.
When you travel by train, you don’t need to worry about maps, car insurance, parking, layovers, or airport security lines.
Most trains run on frequent schedules, allowing you to plan your trip on a whim… although reserving your route in advance ensures availability.
But for added flexibility, consider renting a car. Inquire about discounted monthly rates, especially during the off-season. Auto Europe offers competitive long-term rates.
A one-month rental sourced from Lisbon ranges from $1,249 to $2,617 per month. Prices are similar whether you pick up and drop off within the same country or switch to a city in another country, such as Milan.
August in Gritty Glasgow
From England, catch a train or plane to Scotland.
Edinburgh is the most visited city in Scotland, and the second most-visited in the UK after London.
But in August, the capital is overrun with tourists visiting for one of Europe’s largest festivals, the Fringe… and prices go up accordingly.
So opt for Scotland’s most populous city instead: Glasgow.
Time Out named Glasgow the fourth best city to visit in the world, and the friendliest.
I can concur. Glaswegians are always willing to strike up a conversation, whether in the pub or on the train, and are known for their brash sense of humor. (I was once treated to a standup comedian’s impromptu set while shopping in the Buchanan Galleries.)
You’ll find yourself quickly at home, and whereas Edinburgh locals consider the overabundance of American tourists somewhat of a nuisance, you’ll be welcomed in Glasgow.
Just be sure to learn how to pronounce local areas of interest—Sauchiehall Street is "Saw-key-hall," for example—before you go.
Stay in Glasgow East, near the University of Strathclyde and attractions like the Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis, or Glasgow Central, host to great shopping and the burgeoning dining scene.
Search for guest houses (budget bed and breakfasts) or join a student housing group on Facebook, as many students vacate their apartments in the summer. The average rent for a one-bedroom here is about £1,000 ($1,215).
Make friends with locals by joining a pub quiz. I recommend that of The Butterfly and the Pig, on Bath Street and kicking off at 8:30 p.m. on Mondays, or The Admiral Woods at 6:30 p.m. on Tuesdays. (The Admiral’s pub quiz nights have been running for over a decade and offer a big prize, so study up.)
When you’re ready to get away from city life, take the picturesque West Highland Line to Oban.
From there, you can take a five-hour ferry to the Hebridean isle of Barra, famed for its white sandy beaches. Don’t be fooled by its Caribbean guise, though… you’ll still need a jacket.
And know that you can still visit Edinburgh… It’s only a 45-minute train ride from Glasgow’s city center to Edinburgh’s.
SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER: 3 MONTHS IN WESTERN EUROPE
September in Sunny Ericeira, Portugal
Trade Glasgow’s brisk, busy scene for laidback, Mediterranean Portugal.
Landing here means that you’ve entered the Schengen Zone, so keep in mind that your passport will be stamped with a 90-day tourist visa that applies to all of the Schengen.
Portugal’s low costs will be friendly to your wallet, plus there’s plenty of history to soak in. Venture northwest to Ericeira, a coastal gem that has attracted many digital nomads and expats.
Ericeira is a thirty-minute drive, an hour by bus, or a two-hour $7 train from Lisbon. Once you arrive in this quaint community (population 10,000), you’ll be glad you made the trip.
Nestled along the rugged Atlantic coastline, Ericeira encompasses pristine beaches, dramatic cliffs, and azure waters. Whether you’re a sunbather, a nature enthusiast, or an artist seeking inspiration, you’ll find it here.
The town’s historic center exudes charm, with locally-owned shops, cafes, and seafood restaurants set among whitewashed buildings and cobblestone streets.
Highly walkable, you don’t need a car here, although you can rent one for a weekend hike or day trip.
Nature lovers will want to visit the nearby Tapada Nacional de Mafra, for hiking, horseback riding, and bird watching
It’ll still be warm out, with an average temperature of 78, but not roasting. You’ll be able to explore Praia da Foz do Lizandro and Praia do Sul beaches without fighting the hordes.
A DETOUR TO ITALY
In the olden days, Italy was a staple of the Grand Tour. If you’d like to go that route, I recommend setting up camp in La Spezia, within a two-hour train ride from Florence, Pisa, and Genoa, and only a 10-minute train ride from the coastal villages of Cinque Terre. Take advantage of the shoulder season to hike one of Cinque Terre’s 48 cliffside footpaths.
October in Foodie Vigo
After Portugal, drive or fly to Spain during "the summer of San Miguel," when the first week of October brings a blast of August-like temperatures to the country.
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| For a three-month jaunt, choose one of the two itineraries above… or combine them. |
Take advantage by heading to the usually cool Vigo, only a couple hundred miles past Portugal’s northernmost border. It’s an ideal base to sample Galician cuisine: fresh mariscadas (seafood platters) from Galicia’s inlets (try the local spider crab or oysters), dry white wines made from the albariño grape, and creamy tetilla cheese.
For a Michelin-star meal, visit Casa Obdulia and save room for the trufa de chocolate for dessert. For a more casual, family-style meal, Casa Soutomayor is a local favorite, just a ten-minute walk from Casco Vello, Vigo’s Old Town.
From here, you can explore the Cíes Islands, part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park.
If you can only visit one of the three islands, make it Monteagudo, whose beach, Praia de Rodas, was named the most beautiful in the world by The Guardian.
Or take the road less traveled and explore the off-the-beaten-track north of the country: Green Spain.
MAXIMIZE YOUR TIME IN EUROPE BY SCHENGEN HOPPING
The first time I traveled solo to Europe, I’d planned to spend 60 to 90 days in each country I went to… until I found out about the Schengen Zone.
The Schengen Zone is a collection of 27 European countries that make up the world’s largest single-visa zone. Most European Union countries are members of the Schengen Zone (the exceptions are Bulgaria, Cyprus, Romania, and Ireland) in addition to non-EU countries like Switzerland, Iceland, Norway, and Liechtenstein.
Per the Schengen Agreement, travelers can pass between these 27 countries on a single 90-day tourist visa without being subject to border controls. But you can only spend a total of 90 days in the entire Zone—not in each country—within a 180-day period.
So you’ll run out your tourist visa whether you’re spending all 90 days in Italy, or 45 days each in Italy and Spain. Overstaying can result in being deported or banned from returning.
Thankfully, there’s a workaround: a practice called Schengen hopping. When your Schengen days run out, you can travel to a nearby non-Schengen country and stay there until another 90 days have passed… or you can intersperse your travel within the Schengen Zone with visits outside of it to make your Schengen days last.
Nearby European countries are your best bet for pulling this off… think the UK, Ireland, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Turkey, Albania, Georgia, and North Macedonia.
(Note that Bulgaria, Romania, and Cyprus are expected to join the Schegen bloc as soon as 2024.)
It’s easiest to track your Schengen days if you’re staying in the Zone for 90 days in a row. But if you’re leaving and reentering during the 180-day period during which your visa is valid, use an app to help calculate how many days you have left. I recommend the European Commission’s online Schengen calculator.
Because I was unaware of Schengen Zone rules during my first trek across Europe, I had to depart Malta a month early, losing thousands of euros in rent. Learn from my experience… and plan your travels strategically.
November in France’s Wine Country
The last time I was in Spain, I road tripped from there to France, hitting Lyon, Bordeaux, and Saint-Émilion.
My favorite stop on our tour was Bordeaux, where I sat outside of a café each morning with a croissant and a cappuccino. I also enjoyed the interactive wine exhibits in La Cité du Vin.
Fall is the shoulder season in France, which translates to shorter lines at popular attractions, more availability for accommodations, and cooler weather, ideal for exploring the French wine country.
Fall foliage in this region is breathtaking, turning rolling hills of green vineyards into a golden carpet.
Autumn is also grape harvest season, when local wineries spring to life in a flurry of activity from Saint-Émilion through the Loire Valley. You can observe the harvest or take part in grape picking through a tour.
I recommend renting a car to explore this region. There are rental car offices throughout Bordeaux and Libourne. You can also reach Saint-Émilion by train from Bordeaux in 30 minutes for less than $20.
Although the Bordeaux wine country isn’t typically associated with remote work, the array of eclectic coffee shops and cafés provide a lively backdrop for working from your laptop. In addition, there are at least 20 co-working spaces to choose from.
You can make Bordeaux your part-time home base by renting with Outsite, a co-living community. Private rooms at the company’s Bordeaux location start from $359 per week, with dedicated workspaces and high-speed WiFi included.
For more privacy, a fully-furnished home or apartment on Airbnb in November ranges from $700-$1,500 per month during November.
From there, continue on to Paris… a staple of the Grand Tour. While there, take in the Art Nouveau architecture mixed with quirky restaurants and bars along the cobbled lanes of la Butte-aux-Cailles, a "forgotten" hilltop neighborhood in the 13th arrondissement. It’s about a 20 minutes’ drive from the center of Paris.
Or, take time for a cooking class or two through Airbnb Experiences, and learn how to bake a traditional French baguette or whip up a crêpe.
At this point, you’ll have run out your 90-day tourist visa. It’s time to Schengen hop.
HOW TO MANAGE HOUSING DURING YOUR GRAND TOUR
Whether you plan to stay for several months or even a year, here’s a guide to help you secure long-term rentals overseas, rent your home, or do a home swap.
Finding European Rentals
Each country has its own rental laws and regulations, so it’s essential to understand your rights and responsibilities as a tenant. In some countries, tenants are also responsible for paying a portion of the agency fee or commission to a rental agent.
Begin your housing search at least a few months in advance of your planned arrival date. This allows you to explore a wider range of options and secure the best deals, especially if traveling during peak season.
Use reputable online platforms like Airbnb, Booking.com, FlipKey, or HousingAnywhere to find vacation rentals and apartments. Make sure to ask the host or property rep about discounts for longer stays.
City centers tend to be more expensive, so consider surrounding neighborhoods or smaller towns for better deals. You can calculate the approximate cost of living and rent in your destination and compare locations on Numbeo.
In many European countries, you can find local rental websites and apps where landlords list apartments and houses for long-term stays. Websites like Idealista (Spain and Portugal), Leboncoin (France), and Immobilienscout24 (Germany) are popular choices for locals and visitors alike to find both short- and long-term rentals.
Consider enlisting the services of a local real estate agent, especially if you’re planning to use one locale as your base for your year abroad. They can help you navigate the local market and assist with the paperwork. Narrow your search by looking up real estate and rentals agencies in the neighborhoods you’re most interested in staying in.
Join expatriate or traveler forums and groups on social media platforms such as Facebook, Nomad List, and Reddit. Search for groups by country or city name or search for "Housing in [your desired location]" for dedicated property groups. You can often find deals you wouldn’t find on property websites.
If you’re renting directly from a person without an intermediary, don’t send funds until you’ve confirmed the property with an in-person tour, checked your source’s ID, and reviewed your rental agreement. It’s more secure to use online platforms, where you can read reviews from previous tenants to get a sense of the landlord’s reliability.
House Swaps
A home swap lets you temporarily exchange your home with someone from another location, allowing you to save up to 80% on your accommodation costs. You can even swap cars on home sharing sites, eliminating the need to rent a vehicle or use public transportation.
HomeExchange is the largest home exchange community in the world, with more than 100,000 listings in 133 countries. For an annual fee of $220, you can list and exchange your home for a year.
Once you find a potential match in the destination of your choice, you can contact the owner to discuss details, expectations, and any specific requirements for the exchange. As an added bonus, your home swap partners can take care of your pets while you’re away. Just make sure to outline those responsibilities and agree on terms in advance.
For properties priced from $500,000 to $50 million, Third Home is a private members’ community for "millionaire home swaps."
Renting Your Own Home
Renting out your house is a good way to cover expenses and ensure your property remains well-maintained in your absence.
To begin, familiarize yourself with local laws for renting out your property. You may need permits or licenses (for example, if you live in New York), and there may be tax implications.
Determine whether you’ll want to organize bookings yourself or hire a property manager, who may charge a 10–30% commission on the rental income. Research rental prices in your area to determine a fair rate that allows you to rent out your property quickly and easily. You can use online platforms to research comps, or consult with a real estate agent for guidance.
Market your property through a website like Airbnb for short-term rentals, or Zillow for long-term rentals. Take good photos of each bedroom and main areas of your home with ample lighting. Consider hiring a professional photographer, if needed.
Choose the Right Tenants: Screen potential tenants thoroughly by conducting background checks on a site like E-Renter. Be sure to check references and assess their financial stability by soliciting bank statements or a credit score.
Sort Your Finances: Designate a separate bank account for rent payments and expenses related to the property. This will help keep your finances organized while abroad.
Remove or secure personal items and valuables that you don’t want tenants to access. Put a lock on a designated closet in your home, or rent a storage unit if needed. Make any necessary repairs to ensure everything is in working order. Consider hiring a professional cleaner to deep clean before tenants move in.
Make sure tenants or your property manager can reach you while traveling in case of emergencies or needed repairs. WhatsApp is a popular free messaging platform overseas.
DECEMBER–MAY: 6 MONTHS IN THE BALKANS
December in Sunny Cyprus
Bid adieu to France—and the Schengen—and yiasoo to Cyprus.
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| Travel from the shores of Cyprus to the ski slopes of Bulgaria for spring in the Balkans. |
The Balkan countries are named for the Balkan Peninsula. Generally speaking, they enjoy Mediterranean weather… and low costs. Think Croatia, Albania, Montenegro…. Outliers like Greece and Cyprus are sometimes lumped into "The Balkans," given their proximity to the peninsula.
Cyprus is one of only four EU members that isn’t part of the Schengen Zone. It also enjoys mild Decembers, with temps in the high 60s F, making it an enviable winter retreat for snowbirds.
With upwards of 340 annual days of sunshine, you’ll happily weather the occasional rain.
For white sand beaches and crystal clear water, head from Lanarca International Airport (LCA) in the capital direct to Paralimni Bay, which looks exactly like a postcard—complete with parasailers in the sky and coconut bars on the beach.
I’ve spent past winters sunbathing here… with the beach to myself.
This time of year, most resorts will be closed, and you’ll enjoy steep discounts as a result. (Among Brits, Cyprus is known as the cheapest destination for snowbirds.) Airbnb offers month-long stays here starting at just $800 for a one-bedroom apartment.
Skip town when January rolls around, as that and February are the coldest and rainiest months here.
WAYS TO LEARN A LANGUAGE, PICK UP SKILLS, AND SAVE MONEY
If you’re interested in learning another language during your tour, there are plenty of full- and part-time opportunities.
You can live in private housing or do an immersion program, where you live with a local host family.
Additionally, many language schools offer private and group programs that cater to seniors.
Coeur de France in Sancerre, an 11th century French village, offers courses for students, families, and adults.
Administrators help clients find private accommodations and organize activities such as golfing excursions, wine tastings, and hiking trips.
Or, if you’re looking for an income—or merely to mediate the cost of housing—check out housesitting or paid work opportunities abroad.
For house- and petsitting, try Trusted Housesitters.
For overseas employment, find work-from-anywhere remote-only jobs on FlexJobs.
Want to make a difference while you’re on the road? Global Vision International (GVI) offers a wide range of volunteer programs, running from one to 24 weeks, for people over 50.
January and February Skiing in the Balkans
Now, swap Cyprus sunshine for Balkan slopes.
Few people know that the Balkans also double as a low-cost ski holiday destination, with more than 150 ski resorts and 1,000 kilometers of slopes.
Bankso, Bulgaria has the largest ski center in the Balkans, where you can buy a one-day lift ticket for 40 BGN ($22) or a seasonal pass for 1,700 BGN ($971).
As a digital nomad, I often spend the winters snowboarding, but I went to Bansko in the winter of 2019 seeking a more affordable location than my previous bases in Whistler, Canada, Niseko, Japan, and Vail, Colorado.
In Bansko, I found a one-bedroom penthouse apartment with a view of the gondola and ski runs for €500 ($530) per month, including utilities.
Each day, I woke to the sun rising over the Pirin Mountains before putting in a few hours on the slopes, meeting up with friends for a coffee or hot chocolate, and starting my work day around noon.
Sample the daily aprés-ski, or social activities you’ll find around town to find your favorite (check out Kolibata, close to the main ski area, for a bite and live music), or soak up the holiday vibe in town with a mulled wine in hand.
Bankso also has an active international community of expats and digital nomads year-round. You can join Coworking Bansko for €129 ($137) per month.
Spend two months here during prime skiing season, or hop to neighboring countries that also have ski resorts, such as Serbia, Montenegro, Romania, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and North Macedonia.
If you’re not a winter sports enthusiast, you’ll still find plenty to enjoy in Bulgaria.
January is chock-full of festivals, from Orthodox Christmas to New Years to the lingering Christmas markets… Plus, you can warm yourself up in the Banya hot springs.
For a further fling, soak up the fairy tale-esque Lake Bled in Slovenia while it’s frozen over… hike in Durmitor National Park in Montenegro… stay in a cozy lodge in medieval Sibiu, Romania and explore Transylvania… or use history buff favorite Bucharest as a base to explore mountain villages.
March on the Albanian Riviera
Once you’re ready to thaw, meander from Bulgaria to the Albanian Riviera.
It’ll still be a tad chilly, with temperatures in the low 60s F, but the rainy season will be tapering off… allowing you to explore the country’s rich history on a budget. (You can expect to pay no more than $500 in monthly rent for an apartment here.)
Set up camp in Saranda on the Ionian Sea (you’ll have views of Greece).
You don’t have to stray far from here to find sites of historical interest… a 5th-century synagogue stands in ruin in the city center, while ancient city walls run along Saranda Boulevard and a castle dating to 1537 looks over the city. (The castle has the best sunset views around.)
Further away is Butrint, the site of an ancient Greek settlement and later, a Roman city. Abandoned in the Middle Ages, it’s considered the most significant archaeological site in Albania.
If you’d like to travel further, I advise you to rent a car… the roads here are occasionally rough and public transit isn’t as extensive as it is elsewhere in Europe.
April and May Hiking in Georgia
Wrap up your time in Tbilisi, Georgia.
Home to 1.2 million people, Georgia’s capital marries the ancient and modern.
The 4th-century Narikala Fortress offers birds-eye views of the city, while the 65-foot-tall Mother of Georgia statue welcomes visitors with a bowl of wine.
Georgia’s renowned as the "cradle of winemaking," with a tradition that some suggest traces back 8,000 years… and Kakheti, the country’s foremost winemaking region, is less than an hour and a half ’s drive away. (Take a taxi, as your total will come out to single-digits in dollars, but confirm the price beforehand.)
But Tbilisi’s real appeal lies in its proximity to some of the world’s most breathtaking hikes.
Georgia enjoys a subtropical climate, so take advantage of the cool spring to hike the Caucasus mountain range.
In a day, you can take hikes from the capital to Gergeti Glacier (and spot the iconic Sameba church), the medieval Udzo Monastery, the prehistoric Svan towers (which once served as defensive dwellings), the long-unfinished Betlemi Church, and so much more.
Plus, you can venture out on multi-day treks too, whether solo or in a guide-led group.
Georgia’s hikes often have guesthouses along the way… so you’ll be able to sleep well after a day of taking in the sights.
As is the case in Albania, Americans receive a year-long tourist visa upon arrival in Georgia… so you can extend your stay if you wish.
Or you can head back to the Schengen Zone, now that 180 days have passed since you began your last tourist visa there. You’ll have another 90 days to explore… or find a place to settle down, armed with the discoveries of the new Grand Tour.
MY PERSONAL EAT, PRAY, LOVE
I took my own gap year when I was well into my career. I’d been working full-time in real estate for four years, and I wanted a change… but what, exactly?
The answer came in the form of an invitation. My childhood friend, Melissa, had time off from her seasonal gig teaching surf lessons in Puerto Rico. She wanted to test out the famous surf around Bali’s Bukit Peninsula… would I be willing to come?
With few savings and even less of a plan, I quit my job and hopped on a flight to Bali.
Melissa and I spent our mornings zooming around the Bukit Peninsula in search of the best waves. When we were tired, we sat in a shaded warung (eatery), snacking on fruit or gado gado salad. In the afternoons, we read. And in the evenings, we headed to bustling Kuta for dinner and drinks with the locals.
It was, in short, the good life.
But something strange happened the longer we were there… life started to slow down. Rather than surfing all day, Melissa and I found ourselves spending more time with locals, playing games with kids on the beach, and exploring the outdoor markets and rice paddies of Ubud. (Fittingly, while perusing the Ubud market, I happened upon Julia Roberts filming Eat, Pray, Love, a story about a woman’s journey around the world to find herself.)
It was only when we slowed down that I learned how to cook Balinese food like nasi goreng (a fried rice dish), and that I didn’t need to add so many chilis to my sambal matah (garlic dressing).
I began reconsidering my relationship with money, too. I declared to my friends and family that I’d never lived so well on so little. During my months in Bali, I spent only $1,000 outside of airfare. As a real estate agent, I’d always hustled toward my next sale… but that wasn’t necessary anymore.
My time off marked a turning point. I shifted to freelancing, working remotely from Costa Rica. I began experimenting with videography, and even (successfully!) applied to be on House Hunters International. And I made a plan to travel the world full-time as a digital nomad a few years later… booking a one-way ticket to Peru.
